Rao's review

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James Andrews' Rao's review

2025-03-24

James Andrews got into Rao's the only way most people can, through a regular, after a subscriber named Rusty invited him along. He walks you through the whole night: the noise spilling onto the street, the Christmas decorations in March, the handshakes, the Journey and Neil Diamond on the speakers. The food is old-school Italian-American done right, from baked clams and a loaded seafood salad to those famous meatballs and a porterhouse that he says is good but not quite Keens or Delmonico's good. He loved the orecchiette with broccoli rabe and sausage, and even the simple peas and prosciutto side got a nod. The bill came to $490 for four, $600 with tip, and yes, it's cash only, which he calls his one real gripe. Bottom line: he says you can find Italian food as good or better in NYC, but you will not find this energy anywhere else.

• The meatballs are basically baseballs of beef, pork and veal, and he calls his the best he's ever had
• The seafood salad with calamari, shrimp, crab and lobster was one of his favorite dishes of the night
• Baked clams got a spot on verdict, with that oregano breadcrumb stuffing nailing the texture
• The porterhouse was mostly medium rare with a nice crust, good but not top-steakhouse good
• Dinner for four ran $490, or $600 with tip, and it's cash only